Moldovan sparkling wine means, above all, one legendary place: Cricova, where traditional-method sparkling wines age in a vast underground city carved into limestone. In Cricova’s galleries — some 120 kilometres of tunnels with a naturally cool, constant climate — bottles rest on their lees until they develop the fine bubbles and toasty complexity that define great sparkling wine. It is one of Europe’s most remarkable wine addresses, and the sparkling heart of Moldova.
A Sparkling Tradition with Deep Roots
Moldova has made sparkling wine for well over a century, but production truly flourished during the Soviet era, when Moldovan wineries became one of the principal sources of sparkling wine for the entire Soviet Union. Enormous volumes of bubbly left Moldova every year, and the expertise built up in those decades never disappeared. Today’s producers work at a different scale, with a focus on quality over quantity, but they inherit cellars, equipment know-how and a genuine national culture of sparkling wine.
The Underground Wine City of Cricova
Cricova’s cellars began life as limestone quarries — the stone built much of the capital, Chișinău — before being converted into wine galleries. Visitors travel the tunnels by small electric trains along “streets” named after grape varieties and wines. Down here, dozens of metres below the vineyards, the temperature stays naturally cool and steady and the humidity high: perfect conditions for slow ageing. The complex also guards Moldova’s National Wine Collection and a series of atmospheric tasting halls, making a Cricova tour part winery visit, part journey into another world.
How Traditional-Method Sparkling Wine Is Made
Cricova’s flagship sparkling wines are made by the same traditional method used in Champagne. The key steps are:
- Base wine: a still, dry, high-acid wine is fermented first, usually from early-picked grapes.
- Second fermentation: the wine is bottled with a little yeast and sugar, and ferments again in the sealed bottle, creating the bubbles.
- Lees ageing: bottles rest horizontally on the spent yeast (lees), gaining bread, biscuit and nut flavours over months and years.
- Riddling: bottles are gradually tilted and turned so the sediment settles in the neck.
- Disgorgement and dosage: the sediment is removed and a small dose of wine (sometimes lightly sweetened) tops up the bottle and sets the final style, from bone-dry brut to sweeter versions.
Watch: The History of Cricova
This episode of the “Hidden Piece” series explores the history of Cricova, from its labyrinthine cellars to its signature sparkling wines.
Styles of Moldovan Sparkling Wine to Try
The classic Cricova style is a brut white — pale, fine-beaded and refreshing, typically built on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with local grapes such as Fetească Albă adding a floral Moldovan accent. Rosé sparkling wines, made with Pinot Noir and local red varieties, bring summer-berry fruit, while tank-method (Charmat) sparkling wines offer a fresher, fruitier and more affordable take on Moldovan bubbles. Look, too, for sparkling wines from the Codru region’s many other producers, who increasingly bottle serious traditional-method wines of their own.
Visiting Cricova and Serving Its Wines
Cricova lies a short drive north of Chișinău and is one of Moldova’s most popular excursions; tours combine the underground galleries with guided tastings, and booking ahead is wise at weekends. At home, serve Moldovan sparkling wine at about 6–8 °C in a tulip glass rather than a narrow flute, so the aromas have room to open. Brut styles are natural aperitifs and pair happily with seafood, sushi, soft cheeses and celebrations great and small.
Read also: Ice Wine and Late-Harvest Wines of Moldova and Divin: Moldova’s Protected Brandy, Explained
Conclusion
Nowhere else in Moldova — or, frankly, in Europe — combines sparkling wine with a setting like Cricova’s underground city. Whether you visit the tunnels or simply open a bottle, Moldovan sparkling wine offers traditional-method quality, a remarkable story and excellent value in every glass. Even poured far from Moldova, each bottle carries a little of that cool limestone darkness — and of the patience that great sparkling wine demands.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Cricova special?
Cricova is a former limestone quarry turned wine city: around 120 kilometres of underground galleries with a cool, constant climate, used to age sparkling and still wines and to store Moldova’s National Wine Collection.
Is Moldovan sparkling wine made like Champagne?
The flagship wines use the same traditional method — a second fermentation in the bottle followed by lees ageing. Only wine from France’s Champagne region may carry the Champagne name, so Moldovan producers label theirs as sparkling wine.
Which grapes are used for Moldovan sparkling wine?
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the classics, often joined by local varieties such as Fetească Albă, which adds floral character to the blend.
Sources & Further Reading
- Wine of Moldova — the official authority for Moldovan wine.
- Moldovan wine — Wikipedia — overview of Moldova’s wine regions and producers.
- Watch: The History of Cricova on YouTube
